Hot Cross Buns

Hot cross buns have started appearing at the local Whole Foods. The bakers there almost certainly have no idea what a hot cross bun is, where it came from, or why they make them around this time of year. In particular, they clearly don't understand that hot cross buns are not supposed to have the texture of a bagel. No. The buns are supposed to be soft, though chewy, made from raised dough. With spices, some sultanas, some candied citrus. Preferably, for me, a sweetened cross on top. It's a Christian tradition but goes back much farther, possibly to the dawn of time. One wonders whether cooking was the true origin of humanity...