Mashed Potatoes
With the world going to hell in a hand basket, one source of solace is good, old-fashioned comfort food. And in winter there's nothing better than a hot meal with mashed potatoes. The problem is, mashed potatoes tend to get kind of gummy. How to fix that? I wouldn't post on this subject except that I saw a cooking show on television the other day that explained the secret for fluffy mashed potatoes and, damn, it works great. I'd never heard of this before, Sharon never had either, but we agree, it makes the best mashed potatoes ever. My guess is that, like us, probably you also hadn't heard of this method, but if you enjoy mashed potatoes give it a try and you won't be sorry. I guarantee you that using the exact same ingredients you usually use, 100% of the time in a blind taste test you'll be able to tell the difference.
It's a matter of chemistry. Evidently there are two kinds of starch in little potato particles. One of them makes cooked potatoes gummy. So when you mash potatoes the gummy starch then gets distributed everywhere. The trick is, if during cooking you shock the potatoes in cold water you "set" the offending starch such that it doesn't spread.
To refine the process, first, peel the potatoes — Red Bliss work well for this — and cut them into largish chunks. Second, steam them. Then, once or twice (the show said once, I've tried twice and it works even better) take them out from being steamed and rinse them with cold, cold water. Resume cooking. They're done when a sharp knife slides in easily. (This may take 40-45 minutes.)
The other part of the secret is, don't use a masher, use a potato ricer. You can get one of these devices for under $15 from your local kitchen supply store or from Amazon. Put the potatoes through the ricer, add butter and salt and pepper, and, voilà, perfect, really fluffy, mashed potatoes.
Of course, you could add almost scalded milk for lighter potatoes or any other ingredients you like. But these basic mashed potatoes are heavenly!!
Posted by George Kenney on January 8, 2010 5:10 AM 
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Comments
Does the trick work if you don't peel the potatoes? I'm a strict, peel-on mashed potato guy.
I'll try it next time and try to remember to report back.
[Skins won't go through the ricer. But you could try, scrape the skins out of the ricer, dice them and then add them. Why not? g.]
Posted by: Lex | January 8, 2010 6:53 PM
Excellent! Now, how about the recipe for the gravy?
[Gravy, I'm not so good at. You need a roux to start... Similar, though, I should post my own great recipe for macaroni and cheese that starts with a white sauce. Stay tuned! ☺ g.]
Posted by: Jim | January 8, 2010 11:17 PM
George,
For mashed potatoes, I usually peel and cut potatoes into large pieces, boil in very salty water till tender and drain. I have been using an OXO potato ricer for years, and "mashed" potatoes made this way were pretty good already.
So, today I steamed some whole medium-sized Yukon Golds, cooled them after 25 minutes, then after steaming 25 more minutes, I cooled them enough that I could peel the skins off without burning my fingers. Then, I pressed them through the ricer into a warm pot over med-low heat with lots of melted butter, added some half and half, salt and pepper, then fluffed with a large spoon.
I have to say, cooking them this way produced the best mashed potatoes I have made yet! The texture, flavor and mouthfeel was marvelous.
I served them with pot roast and vegetables braised in a red wine and chicken stock gravy, separated, de-fatted, reduced and thickened with cornstarch at the end. I stirred a large pat of butter into the gravy just before serving.
This was comfort food for a cold January day. Now I need a nap...
Cheers from Atlanta!
[Thanks for your great comment, Ken! My own pot roast should should be ready in about two more hours. It's been cooking since 11:00 a.m. at 220 degrees. g.]
Posted by: Ken Brakebill | January 10, 2010 3:10 PM